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Turbo removal Install, Removal and Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Removal

April 4th, 2009 · No Comments

Turbocharger (Removal)
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet and outlet pipes.
4. Label and disconnect the intake air heater element electrical leads, intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector, manifold absolute temperature (MAP) sensor electrical connector and the pressure hoses.
5. Loosen the clamps. Remove the compressor manifold.
6. Remove and discard the compressor manifold O-ring seal.
7. Disconnect the exhaust outlet pipe.
- Loosen the Marmon clamp.
- Disconnect the exhaust outlet pipe.
8. Disconnect the exhaust back pressure valve. Vehicle with exhaust back pressure system only)
- Slide the retaining clip away from the exhaust back pressure Valve actuator lever.
- Detach the exhaust back pressure valve actuator rod.
9. Label and disconnect the waste gate solenoid vacuum hose and the pressure hose. Loosen the clamps. Remove the air inlet tube.
10. NOTE: The Marmon clamp cannot be removed with the turbocharger installed. Loosen the Marmon clamp.
11. Remove the turbocharger.
- Remove the bolts.
- Remove the turbocharger.
12. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.

Turbocharger (Installation)
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
* The exhaust inlet Marmon clamp must be positioned on the exhaust inlet pipe before installing the turbocharger.
This is a write up I did for another member with a turbo pedestal oil leak, disregard the parts about pedestal removal if you are only removing the turbo.
Please excuse me if I sound a little too detailed, as far as I know, You could be a master mechanic or engineer but I will assume you are a Shade tree mechanic like me.
If you do not have a topside creeper, I would suggest you have some type of padding or heavy blanket to place on top of the engine to lie on. I used an old 2” foam rubber mattress pad folded in half to lay across the top of the front of the motor. It took me approx. 7 hours to do the removal and installation (not counting any breaks) but I also gutted the EBV valve and sealed up the EBV actuator in the pedestal which added about 2 hours. It’s mostly a one man job but there are a few times an extra set of hands really helps.

Make sure you have the following:
• Metric socket set and combination wrenches.
• A torque wrench that will measure 18 lb/ft
• A torque wrench that will measure 71 in/lbs. (not absolutely Necessary but that’s what the clamps on the intercooler boots call for)
• Two sets of o-rings to attach the turbo to the pedestal and for the
• pedestal to the engine.
• 2-F4TZ-6N653-A and 2-F4TZ-6N653-B
• A spray can of good penetrating oil (I use “Liquid Wrench”)
Spray liberally the two Marmon clamps that attach the exhaust down pipe to the turbo and the Marmon clamp that attaches the exhaust up-pipe to the turbo. (Do this at least an hour, preferably over night, before starting removal to give the penetrant a chance to work).
Remove the plastic cover that’s above the fuel filter.
Remove the intake hose that runs from the air filter to the Turbocharger inlet. Make sure and remove the small sensor tube plugged into the side of the intake hose. To make it easier to remove the hose, unbolt the “air Inlet bracket” (figure 7 in the above diagram).

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