Automotive Manual PDF

Selecting The Vehicle Type
Switches 1,2, and 3 are used to select vehicle type. Use the chart on the back of these instructions to determine which of the above switch settings you will need.
Window Roll Up Function
Turn Switch 4 on (up position) to enable the window roll up function or off (down position) to disable window roll up. Window roll up is not available for all vehicle types. Use the chart on the back of these instructions to determine which vehicles are compatible.
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1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Remove all screws securing center console and remove console.
3. Remove the rubber dust boot surrounding the shifter, use caution not to damage it. Put it in a safe place for re-installation later.
4. Place the car up on a lift, or use a jack and jack stands to raise it off the ground. Loosen the nut on the base of the shifter using a 12mm socket and ratchet. You may need to hold the head of the bolt on the opposite side of the shift rod with a wrench to loosen the nut.
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Mounting the Meyer Daytime Running Lights:
1. Connect the 07104 Adapter Kit as per Nite Saber Instruction sheet (Form 1-757) Installation #4 (Installation of adapter set).
2. Turn on Vehicle and verify operations of the Vehicle Headlight, Daytime Running Lights and Snow Plow lamps. Replace and repair any defective parts, switches, etc. before installing the Daytime Running Light Module. NOTE: To test Daytime Running Light on Vehicle, make sure vehicle is outside in Daytime condition. The 99 & later Chevy is equipped with a photo sensor and will not operate under artificial light.
3. The Meyer Daytime Running Light (DRL) is mounted in the engine compartment close to the battery and near one of the front headlamps and parking lamps. When a location is found, make a mark with a pencil on the inside fender wall of the vehicle through the mounting tab of the DRL module. Drill two 1/8” holes on the marks and mount the unit with two #10 gauge screws provided.
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Adjusting Lift/Leveling kit after installation
(1) Always wear proper eye protection! Position vehicle on a stable,flat surface and suspend front wheels, lifting by the frame with a floor jack or lift jack. Secure frame with jack stands. Chock tires and turn engine off prior to adjustment!
(2) Locate the two Torsion Key Adjusting Bolts in the cross member of your vehicle chassis.
(3) Using a ratchet wrench and 22mm socket,engage the Adjusting Bolt and SLOWLY turn CLOCKWISE to INCREASE ride height,or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to DECREASE ride height. Each full turn of the Adjusting Bolt will alter ride height approximately 1/8″. Each half turn will result in a ride height change of approximately 1/16″. (4) Be sure to always check that both sides of the vehicle have been adjusted to the same ride height. Under no circumstances should this product be altered to adjust ride height beyond its design limits.
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Congratulations on purchasing the best “working” 4-bar kit on market. The FATBAR has many features that allow it to out-perform the competition. You will notice them as we go along.
1. Every step of this installation is based on the rear axle centerline (C.I.). So locating the C.I. is very important. Set the chassis level and project the C.I. from the axle housing onto the frame with a level, or plumb-bob. If the bed is handy, set it on the frame and roll a tire under to check the C.I. – Sometimes we want to move the C.I. from its stock location to center the wheel in the fender. Double check your chosen C.I. by measuring to several points on the chassis cab mounts, bed mounts and front C.I. to make sure it’s even on both sides (square).
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Connector 1
Pin #1: Red - This wire is used as the (+) Constant Power input for the unit. This wire must be connected for the unit to function correctly.
Pin #2: Green/White - This wire is the (+) Positive Parking light output. Connect this wire directly to the (+) trigger wire generally off the parking light switch or found at or behind the fuse box.
Pin #3: Red/ White - This wire is used as the (+) Constant Power input for Starter and 2nd Ignition.
Pin #4: White - This wire is used to power the (+) Accessory, which activates the blower motor for the heater or A/C.
Pin #5: Blue - This wire will power (+) 2nd Starter, (+) 2nd Accessory or (+) 2nd Ignition depending on the jumper selection at JM1.
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Notes for Wire Connection
Pin #1 : Red This wire is used as the (+)Constant Power input for the unit. This wire must be connected for the unit to function correctly.
Pin #2 : Green/ White This wire is the (+)Positive Parking light output. Connect this wire directly to the (+) trigger wire generally off the parking
light switch or found at or behind the fuse box.
Pin #3 : Red/ White This wire is used as the (+)Constant Power input for Starter and 2nd Ignition.
Pin #4 : White This wire is used to power the ( +)Accessory, which activates the blower motor for the heater or A/C
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Putting an American V8 Engine into a Mercedes 107 Chassis
Most owners find a 450SL’s power to be “adequate.” It’s a heavy car for its size, though, and it’s stately rather than aggressive or impressive in its acceleration. In additon, the high cost of an engine rebuild leads many to consider swapping in an American V8 as an alternative to having their 4.5 liter V8 rebuilt when the time comes for a rebuild. “So why aren’t engine swaps more frequently done?”
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Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Polyurethane IRS Subframe Bushing Kit. This kit is intended for use on the 1999-2004Cobra IRS subframe. The polyurethane bushings in this kit are considerably less compliant than the stock rubber IRS subframe bushings. These stiffer bushings virtually eliminate displacement of the IRS subframe relative to the chassis, thus improving stability and predictability of the car during acceleration, braking and cornering. The polyurethane still provides very good noise isolation. 1979-98 cars fitted with IRS require MMIRSU-2 bushing kit.
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1. Place the coach on a level concrete surface. Jack the coach up so that the rear tires are just off the ground. Make sure to put jack stands on each side of the frame for safety.
2. Remove the rear shackle hanger bolt that fastens the leaf spring hanger to the shackle. Keep this bolt and nut as it will be reused. If the coach has storage compartments that are close to shackle assembly, it may be required to use a hole saw and cut a hole in the compartment to get the bolt out. If this is required, just cut a piece of tin and pop rivets to cover the hole. Use some silicone to seal the hole to prevent leaks.
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