Automotive Manual PDF

It may be necessary to remove the wheels depending on the tools being used for installation.
1. Clean and degrease the mud guard location area on the fender before installation.
2. Remove factory fasteners from locations A and B (Figure 1).
3. Place mud guard against fender and install #10 screws and washers at locations A and B, through mud guard, through existing fender holes and into u-clips. NOTE: The u-clips are to be used as a nut and not to be clipped over fender. Check fit and level before tightening.
4. Using mud guard as a template, drill an 1/8” hole at location C and install a #10 screw.
(more…)

[Read more →]

Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Pry loose the retaining buttons on the lower splash shield.
b) Remove all retaining buttons on the fender liner around the fender well.
c) Carefully pull back the fender liner and splash shield to gain access to the fender well and stock resonator box.
d) Remove the battery from the engine bay.
e) Remove the plastic battery tray.
(more…)

[Read more →]

Step 1:
Identify the key components that complete our brake line kit: You should have nine (9) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, fourteen (14) single banjo bolts, (1) single bleeder bolt three (3) drawings, and a picture CD. There are also a total of forty (40) washers and two (2) “olive” conic inversors. Thirty six washers will be used, and two olives. The rest are spares.
Step 2:
Familiarize yourself with the brake lines, which are labeled for application. Lettered brake hoses A, B, C, D, E, F, G are installed on the front of the motorcycle, while brake hoses (H and I) are installed on the rear. Each label will reference a different drawing, which will show you the location of the key brake system components.
To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip!
(more…)

[Read more →]

STEP 1. Remove the contents from the box and check for any damage. Verify all parts against the parts list.
STEP 2. Read and understand instructions completely before beginning installation.
STEP 3. Determine Driver and Passenger Uprights and Top and Bottom Tubes. (Uprights are positioned so raised side of bolt holes are facing each other and the Tube with the two pierced holes is the Bottom Tube).
(more…)

[Read more →]

STEP 1. Remove the contents from box and check for damage. Verify all parts are present. Read instructions completely before beginning
STEP 2. Determine passenger and driver uprights and center section assembly and assemble as shown. Hand tighten all fasteners centered in slots or holes. Be sure dimple in ring mount plate is to the top.
STEP 3. For easier installation, it may be necessary to remove grille from vehicle but it’s not necessary on all models. Remove plastic shroud to gain access to grille by removing seven plastic pin retainers. Pull center pin up with a small flat tip screwdriver. Remove 6mm bolt from top of grille. Pull on outer edge of grille by applying firm pressure away from the fender, repeat on the opposite side and center section. Carefully remove grille from vehicle.
(more…)

[Read more →]

Mounting the Meyer Daytime Running Lights:
1. Connect the 07104 Adapter Kit as per Nite Saber Instruction sheet (Form 1-757) Installation #4 (Installation of adapter set).
2. Turn on Vehicle and verify operations of the Vehicle Headlight, Daytime Running Lights and Snow Plow lamps. Replace and repair any defective parts, switches, etc. before installing the Daytime Running Light Module. NOTE: To test Daytime Running Light on Vehicle, make sure vehicle is outside in Daytime condition. The 99 & later Chevy is equipped with a photo sensor and will not operate under artificial light.
3. The Meyer Daytime Running Light (DRL) is mounted in the engine compartment close to the battery and near one of the front headlamps and parking lamps. When a location is found, make a mark with a pencil on the inside fender wall of the vehicle through the mounting tab of the DRL module. Drill two 1/8” holes on the marks and mount the unit with two #10 gauge screws provided.
(more…)

[Read more →]

Congratulations on purchasing the best “working” 4-bar kit on market. The FATBAR has many features that allow it to out-perform the competition. You will notice them as we go along.
1. Every step of this installation is based on the rear axle centerline (C.I.). So locating the C.I. is very important. Set the chassis level and project the C.I. from the axle housing onto the frame with a level, or plumb-bob. If the bed is handy, set it on the frame and roll a tire under to check the C.I. – Sometimes we want to move the C.I. from its stock location to center the wheel in the fender. Double check your chosen C.I. by measuring to several points on the chassis cab mounts, bed mounts and front C.I. to make sure it’s even on both sides (square).
(more…)

[Read more →]

1. Before beginning installation be sure to wear proper eye protection.
2. Remove the grille shell from the vehicle. Open the hood and remove the black ABS cover from grille to the radiator shroud. Remove the 8 phillips head screws on the retaining clips, lift cover up and remove the retaining clips.
3. Remove the turn signal / parking lamp assemblies by removing the 7MM head bolt at the inside corners behind each lamp. Grasp lamp and pull straight forward to remove. Lift the locking tabs on bulb socket and turn 1/4 turn CCW to remove.
(more…)

[Read more →]

Start with your Phillips head screw driver and remove the three screws on top of your battery cover. Then remove the battery cover from the car. Firmly grasp the plug on top of your MAF sensor unplugging it. Lay the plug back away from the intake system. Using your Phillips head screwdriver loosen the hose clamp next to the MAF housing.

You will notice a hose with a 90 degree bend and a small plastic ring around the end of it snapped into place at the bottom of the factory air box. Firmly squeeze the top and the bottom of that ring squeezing together and pull the hose off of the factory air box. Pull the hose back and tuck it back out of the work space

Grasp the hose connecting to the MAF housing and remove it from the MAF housing. Let it rest up against the MAF housing

Take the 10mm socket, extension, and wrench. Remove the two bolts that secure the factory air box to the car. One is behind the negative battery terminal and the other is at the opposite corner of the air box, in front of the driver’s side strut tower.

Next you will remove the factory air box. First lift up on the side closest to the engine, and then lift up on the side closest to the fender. As you lift up on the fender side you should notice a large rubber peg slide out of a hole in the fender lining, If your car has the fresh air duct that was attached to the air box running along side the inside of the fender, you will notice that the air box should come separated from this fresh air duct.

If your car has this fresh air duct, take your 10mm socket, remove the nut that secures the factory fresh air duct to the side of the fender. Then remove the short piece of ducting.

Get pdf Audi TT V-Flow Intake Install Instructions

[Read more →]

Disassemble
1. Remove Front Under Panel by removing the seven 8mm hex screws
2. Remove Front bumper. On 11/01 and up models remove the four 8mm hex screws from under the car and one 8mm hex screw in the left and right fender well. Once screws are removed, (six in total) Grab bumper from each side and with a strong quick pull, the bumper should pop off. Disconnect the Fog lights and electrical connector. On 2001 models up to 10/01 there are two large reverse torx bolts that need to be removed from the bottom as well as the 6 8mm screws and then bumper will slide off. It is not necessary to pop it off
(more…)

[Read more →]