Automotive Manual PDF

STEP 1: REMOVE PLYWOOD & INVENTORY CONTENTS
Remove the top cover from the canister box and set it aside for later installation.
Remove the canister from the box. Using the 3/8” wrench or socket remove the 2 bolts holding the plywood on the ends of the canister. Use Side Cut Pliers to cut handle retaining straps. DISCARD PLYWOOD PACKAGING AND BOLTS!
Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there. Be sure to check inside the small cardboard box for parts.
(more…)

[Read more →]

The ECT Display Driver is a small module with a removable wire harness that mounts behind the driver’s foot well cover. All wiring connections are near the ECM and only 4 wires are needed for basic operation:
• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)
(more…)

[Read more →]

TO START:
1. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the air temperature sensor electrical connection as shown.
3. Unclip the battery cable from the air inlet duct as shown.
4. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air inlet duct as shown.
5. Remove the air inlet duct.
6. Loosen and remove the four bolts that secure the air intake resonator.
(more…)

[Read more →]

To install the retention system provided with your Catch-All’s, first snap the anchor screws into the bottom side of the mat. Snap an anchor screw into each factory installed retention ring. Place the Catch-Alls in your vehicle and position for best fit (see illustrations “A”, “B”, and “C”). Hold the Catch-All firmly in place against the floor and screw the anchor screw all the way into the floor carpet.
(more…)

[Read more →]

REMOVING FACTORYAIR DAM
1. To remove factory Air Dam, use a 6” long flat blade screwdriver. The rivets are accessed through the bottom of the bumper behind the factory Air Dam.
2. It will be necessary to remove the factory driving lights by removing the two bolts that hold the plastic light brackets to the bumper. Also remove the nut clips from the bumper.
3. Insert the screwdriver blade into the rivet head slots and twist screwdriver to force rivet inserts downward. Once rivet inserts are 1/4” to 1/2” down, grab with fingers or pliers and pull down, completely removing inserts.
4. After all rivets and lights are removed, use the screwdriver from the front side of Air Dam and pry down on the Air Dam to remove it from the bumper.
5. Next remove the plastic rivet clips from the bottom of the bumper by squeezing the clips and pulling down.
(more…)

[Read more →]

1. Disconnect Battery. Do not skip this step. Also, do not try to “test” the LED array by connecting the leads directly to your battery. Permanent damage will occur to the LED array if you fail to heed these steps. Handle the LED array by the stainless steel bracket, not by the LEDs or the supporting circuitry.
2. Remove taillight lens and gasket.
3. Remove taillight bulb.
4. Remove the bulb connector from the back side of the taillight. Cut the two wires close to this connector.
5. Install the provided wire guide into the bulb hole.
6. Route the supplied electrical harness through wire guide to the area where connections will be made. Note that the ground connection (green wire) is made through the LED array’s stainless steel bracket.
(more…)

[Read more →]

A computer tune specific for this intake is required when installing this kit. Failure to add a tune specific for the JLT intake may result in major engine damage. ***DO NOT INSTALL KIT AND DRIVE WITHOUT A TUNE! ***
Please review complete instructions prior to installing.
Step#
1. Verify you have all of the following parts included in the kit: (1) 4″-3.5″ 90 degree Rubber Reducing Elbow, (1) JLT Billet MAF housing, (2) MAF screws, (1) S&B Oval Air Filter, (1) 056 Clamp, (1) 072 Clamp, (1) PCV hose, (1) JLT heat shield (2) Heat Shield Bolts Optional part: SCT Tuner
(more…)

[Read more →]

The JackRabbit is designed to carry rainwater from the cover into the canister and then out through the drains. Most truck models have standard OE drain holes or plastic/rubber access ports in the front of the truck bed. Check to make sure your truck has the OE drain holes so that drilling into the sheet metal is not required. If drilling is necessary, be sure to check the underside of the truck bed for the best location. The holes should be located near the side and as far forward as possible. Use a drill bit suitable for sheet metal (such as a taper drill or step drill). Drill drain tube clearance holes at 3/4” (19mm). This will need to be done before installing the cover.
(more…)

[Read more →]

The JackRabbit is designed to carry rainwater from the cover into the canister and then out through the drains. Most truck models have standard OE drain holes or plastic/rubber access ports in the front of the truck bed. Check to make sure your truck has the OE drain holes so that drilling into the sheet metal is not required. If drilling is necessary, be sure to check the underside of the truck bed for the best location. The holes should be located near the side and as far forward as possible. Use a drill bit suitable for sheet metal (such as a taper drill or step drill). Drill drain tube clearance holes at 3/4” (19mm). This will need to be done before installing the cover.
(more…)

[Read more →]

The BC-harness is delivered complete with all the connectors. When all the wiring is complete it’s important to secure the harness and make sure that it’s not mounted directly on top of extremely hot engine parts such as the header. You can use cable ties to secure the harness.
(more…)

[Read more →]