
Always keep safety in mind when working on your vehicle. Completely read these instructions before installing the kit.
I. Preparing the Vehicle
1. Jack the vehicle up and support the body on jackstands.
2. Remove the rear wheels (Figure 1).
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Parts included:
- main bracket, polished, chromed
- wide cateye taillight, w/ 36” long wires (if ordered)
- fasteners: (2) ž” x ―” bolts, nuts, (4) washers for main bracket
- (2) small washers for mounting taillight to main bracket
Rear fender assembly:
- remove seat – two bolts on side
- remove seat holding metal bracket (7,22)
- disconnect rear wiring harness from wiring cluster above battery; these include rear turn signal and rear brakelight wires
- remove 2 bolts on each side of rear fender strut (9,16); this will loosen the rear fender entirely
- lift off the rear fender assembly carefully, making sure not to scratch paint !
- remove seat nut (17), and carefully separate fender (12) from metal frame (13)
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Position truck on a flat surface and lift vehicle by the frame so that the front wheels are off the ground. Use a minimum 3 ton jack stands and place under frame for safety or a (2) two post lift if available. Make sure that the emergency brake is on and the rear wheels are blocked to prevent a rollout.
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Modifying your vehicle ride height may result in the vehicle handling differently than a factory equipped vehicle. Extreme care must be used to prevent loss of control or vehicle rollover. Failure to drive your modified vehicle safely may result in serious injury or death. ReadyLift Suspension Inc. does not recommend the combined use of suspension lifts, body lifts, or other lifting devices. You should never operate your modified vehicle under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Always drive your modified vehicle at reduced speeds to ensure your ability to control your vehicle under all driving conditions. Always wear your seat belt.
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Step 1: Measure current front ride height. Take a measurement from the bottom of the wheel/rim to the lip of the fender on each side of the vehicle. Write down measurements to help in determining ride height after new kit is installed.
Step 2: Position vehicle on a flat surface or automotive lift. Suspend front wheels, lifting by the frame with a floor jack or lift jack. Secure using jack stands and wheel chocks. Be sure engine is turned OFF and vehicle is in PARK. Remove tire/wheel assembly on ONE side of vehicle.
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Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Caster/ Camber Plates. Our Caster/Camber Plates are designed to maximize the performance of your T-Bird’s front suspension. You will find many features that set our Caster/Camber Plates apart from the rest:
• The widest range of camber adjustment in the industry: Side-to-side reversible main plates double the camber adjustment with the underhood space limitations for camber slot length.
• Lifetime guaranteed high grade Teflon lined spherical bearings are used at the strut top mounting point. Urethane bushings do not provide positive location, and induce bending loads on the strut that reduce the strut’s lifespan and may even break the strut shaft.
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Start with your Phillips head screw driver and remove the three screws on top of your battery cover. Then remove the battery cover from the car. Firmly grasp the plug on top of your MAF sensor unplugging it. Lay the plug back away from the intake system. Using your Phillips head screwdriver loosen the hose clamp next to the MAF housing.
You will notice a hose with a 90 degree bend and a small plastic ring around the end of it snapped into place at the bottom of the factory air box. Firmly squeeze the top and the bottom of that ring squeezing together and pull the hose off of the factory air box. Pull the hose back and tuck it back out of the work space
Grasp the hose connecting to the MAF housing and remove it from the MAF housing. Let it rest up against the MAF housing
Take the 10mm socket, extension, and wrench. Remove the two bolts that secure the factory air box to the car. One is behind the negative battery terminal and the other is at the opposite corner of the air box, in front of the driver’s side strut tower.
Next you will remove the factory air box. First lift up on the side closest to the engine, and then lift up on the side closest to the fender. As you lift up on the fender side you should notice a large rubber peg slide out of a hole in the fender lining, If your car has the fresh air duct that was attached to the air box running along side the inside of the fender, you will notice that the air box should come separated from this fresh air duct.
If your car has this fresh air duct, take your 10mm socket, remove the nut that secures the factory fresh air duct to the side of the fender. Then remove the short piece of ducting.
Get pdf Audi TT V-Flow Intake Install Instructions
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If no faults were found while performing procedures in the F - BASIC TESTING article, proceed with self-diagnostics. If no fault codes are present, proceed to the H - TESTS W/O CODES article for diagnosis by symptom (i.e., ROUGH IDLE, NO START, etc.). NOTE: All voltage tests should be performed using a Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM) with a minimum 10-megohm input impedance, unless stated otherwise in testing procedures.
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The factory service manual specifically states that striking the knuckle to loosen the ball joints or tie rod ends is prohibited. Striking the aluminum knuckle can damage it. A special puller tool #8677 (or equivalent ball joint tool) is recommended to be used to separate these components from the knuckle.
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Measure from the center of the wheel up to the bottom edge of the wheel opening
LF______ RF______ LR______ RR______2.
NOTE: The factory service manual specifically states that striking the knuckle to loosen the ball joints or tie rod ends is prohibited. Striking the aluminum knuckle can damage it. A special puller tool #8677 (or equivalent ball joint tool) is recommended to be used to separate these components from the knuckle.
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