Automotive Manual PDF

This kit is intended for use in applications where a remote mounted idle air control motor is necessary, and an ecu with the ability to control a Honda idle air control motor is being used. These instructions will specifically go over the ecu setup for an AEM EMS, though it can also be used with other systems such as Motec or Haltech.
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1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE (-) BATTERY CABLE.
2. Disconnect electrical connectors to throttle body & factory intake tube. See Fig#1
3. Using a 10mm socket, remove two bolts holding throttle cable bracket to intake manifold. Retain bolts for later use. See Fig#2
4. Remove throttle cable(s) from throttle body.
5. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen hose clamp on factory intake tube & remove tube from throttle body & air box. See Fig#3
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Getting started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface, and set parking brake.
b) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
c) If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.

Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Remove the stock air box assembly and attaching hardware from inside the fender well.
b) Disconnect breather hose from the air inlet tube.
c) Disconnect air temperature sensor harness from the air inlet tube.
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We hope you are satisfied with the look and performance. You may use any polish or wax on the pipe as it’s painted with the same high quality paint as your car. It is also recommended to use some tire shine on the rubber elbow. Take your time and it will be a smooth install. Please review complete instructions prior to installing.

Step#
1 Verify you have all of the following parts included in the kit: (1) JLT Painted Pipe with IAC, PVC, and Vacuum line fittings, (1) 45 degree Rubber Elbow w/ clamps to connect throttle body to JLT Pipe, (1) Silicone Reducer w/ clamps to connect JLT pipe to MAF, (1) JLT heat shield, (1) Billet MAF Adaptor with bolts, (1) 4×12” S&B Air Filter, (1) 5/8” Hose, (1) 3/4” Hose, (1) Vacuum Line, (1) Silicone Spacer (for use on early Lightnings with 80mm MAF only)
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1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Grasp intake tube and sharply lift up and away from airbox
2. Grasp large oval section of intake tube and pull up and away from inner fender well, and remove entire intake tube. (Note: Intake tube is held in with rubber grommets, no bolts.)
3. Remove 13mm nut on power steering reservoir bracket. Install Airaid intake tube support bracket, replace nut, and leave slightly loose. (Nut will be tightened after final adjustments.)
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You have just purchased the finest turbo system available for the 6.9 and 7.3 liter diesel engine. The following information will assist you in the installation of your ATS turbo system.

IMPORTANT: It is very important to read all the instructions carefully prior to any installation of your turbo system. Normal mechanical and safety procedures should be followed.
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Removing stock carburetor and cables.
1. Remove seat, front fenders and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “ON” or “RES” position. If it is in the “PRI” position it will allow fuel through it.
2. Remove throttle cable, (and housing if installing a twist kit) from throttle housing. Pay close attention to routing when removing cable as the new cables will need too be routed the same.
3. Disconnect choke cable from stock carburetor before disconnecting it from handle bar and remove.
4. Remove stock carburetor.
5. Stuff a dry, clean rag into the intake manifold to keep debris from entering engine.
6. Remove stock rear head stay from frame and head.
7. Remove plastic vent box from right side of frame along with hoses.
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Removing stock carburetor and cables
1. Remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position.
2. Remove throttle cables and throttle housing.
3. Remove voltage regulator from left side of frame to allow carb to come out.
4. Remove stock carburetor.
5. Unplug TPS (throttle position sensor) and tape end off coming from bike.
6. Stuff a dry, clean rag into the intake manifold to keep debris from entering engine.
7. Remove engine breather lines along with plastic canister on right side of bike.
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Materials:
(1) Plastic Epoxy (fast setting type) I used Loctite Plastic Epoxy (sets in 7 minutes)
(2) 1 foot of ¾ inch (ID) radiator/heater hose. You only need about 3” but this is the minimum you could buy at the Autozone.
(3) Heater connectors (see below) I got mine from the Autozone, but you could use a similar item I guess. These fit perfectly in the existing hole on the valve which is handy… just as an fyi. (Help part number: 47065)
(4) Minimum Two hose clamps sized for the heater hose. You can get more if you want to clamp everything down, like I did.
(5) Some carburator cleaner.
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