Automotive Manual PDF

To install the retention system provided with your Catch-All’s, first snap the anchor screws into the bottom side of the mat. Snap an anchor screw into each factory installed retention ring. Place the Catch-Alls in your vehicle and position for best fit (see illustrations “A”, “B”, and “C”). Hold the Catch-All firmly in place against the floor and screw the anchor screw all the way into the floor carpet.
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1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Remove all screws securing center console and remove console.
3. Remove the rubber dust boot surrounding the shifter, use caution not to damage it. Put it in a safe place for re-installation later.
4. Place the car up on a lift, or use a jack and jack stands to raise it off the ground. Loosen the nut on the base of the shifter using a 12mm socket and ratchet. You may need to hold the head of the bolt on the opposite side of the shift rod with a wrench to loosen the nut.
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If your truck does not have a locking tailgate (like provided on many full size Fords, Toyotas and Nissans), you will need to purchase an aftermarket tailgate lock (i.e., Pop’ N Lock, Bully Tailgate Lock, etc.,) to be able to lock the tailgate shut and to secure your truck bed. These lock sets basically replace your existing tailgate handle and convert it into the equivalent of a factory installed locking tailgate. Changing these tailgate lock handles is the equivalent of changing a “door knob” in that you simply loosen the 2 bolts on the inside of the tailgate, remove your non-locking tailgate handle, and replace with one that locks. These install really easily without any drilling and you can buy these at any truck accessories store. Once the cover is closed (and latched), you just simply lock the cover, then lock up your tailgate handle and you now have a really secure trunk!
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1. Remove the factory grille shell from vehicle, by releasing the (4) key hole tabs across the top of grille shell. Then there are (2) clips behind the parking lights on the driver & passenger side of grille shell, release by pulling straight out on shell. Then release (3) clips along the bottom of grille shell, by pulling straight out on shell.
2. After grille shell is removed place shell face up on a protective surface, such as a blanket or rubber mat.
Next you will be removing the center section of the factory grille shell, using a cut-off wheel or hack saw. Trim all vertical & horizontal plastic holding center in place.
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1. Start by supporting the car on 4 jack stands. The car should be sitting on approximately the same angle as it does on the ground, or slightly lower in front.
2. Remove all the old front suspension components. Note that on the underside of the frame are the two rubber axle snubbers (or the holes for them, if they are missing) directly above the axle. Mark them for later reference.
3. We would recommend that at this point, you tack weld or clamp a temporary brace across the frame rails in front of the old crossmember as shown in Figure 1. This helps to maintain the rail dimension after the old crossmember is removed.
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I installed a set of Super Pro bushings in my 1980 Volvo 244, using suspension components from mixed donor cars: some were from a 1977 242 DL, some were from a 1979 242 GT, and some were from a 1984 245 DL. Though these vehicles are very different, installation should be typical since none of them used parts specific to that model.
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